*Colonia is compact, but cozy. It could remind us a little of Stars Hollow from Gilmore Girls!*

Welcome to Uruguay!

Nestled between the bustling giants of Brazil and Argentina, this inviting country offers a unique blend of historical richness and modern comforts that make it an irresistible destination for travelers and retirees alike. Montevideo, the capital, is a lively hub of art, music, and gastronomy, while the enchanting Colonia del Sacramento invites you to wander its cobblestone streets steeped in colonial history. We explore the delights of two of its most celebrated cities, Montevideo and Colonia.

Intro to Uruguay

*Colonia is a quick ferry from Buenos Aires*

Because it’s not as flashy as its neighbors, it’s easy for Uruguay to be in the shadows. But there are several things that make it an interesting country. It’s one of the oldest democratic nations in the region and it has a blend of indigenous, European (primarily Spanish and Italian), and African influences. Its economy is stable and prosperous. Various aspects of life are a reflection of that diversity, including music, food, and dance. Uruguay is popular with expats because of its stable and prosperous economy. We had no idea, but it’s one of the world’s largest exporters of beef and has a strong emphasis on sustainability and organic farming.

Uruguay has a well-regarded education system, including free public education at all levels, a universal healthcare system that makes medical services accessible to its citizens, and is recognized for its progressive social policies. It’s one of the first countries in Latin America to legalize same-sex marriage and has a strong focus on human rights and social justice.

Things to know about Uruguay

Currency: Uruguayan Peso (UYU). Have some cash on hand since some places (rare) only accept cash or debit cards. ATMs are widely available. Nearly everyplace accepted credit cards. Often places will also accept US dollars and Argentine pesos in addition to Uruguayan pesos

Language: Spanish is the official language. Some Uruguayans in tourist areas may speak English.

Transportation: Use Uber when you can versus taxis. Montevideo has a comprehensive bus system and that’s the main route between cities.

Safety: Uruguay is considered one of the safest countries in South America, but standard travel precautions should still be observed. Avoid displaying valuables and be cautious in crowded areas.

Weather and Clothing: Uruguay has a temperate climate, with hot summers (December to February) and mild winters (June to August). Dress in layers, especially during the cooler months, and always check the weather forecast before your trip.

Local Cuisine: Don't miss trying traditional dishes such as asado (barbecue), milanesa (breaded meat), and empanadas. Be sure to enjoy mate, a traditional herbal drink, as it is a key part of local culture.

Tipping: Tipping is customary in Uruguay; restaurants typically expect a tip of 10% of the bill and round up the bill for taxis and ride shares. We found most restaurants will back out the cost of the VAT, which means that even with a tip, your bill ends up being cheaper than the amount you’re originally quoted.

Time Zone: Uruguay is in the Uruguay Standard Time Zone (UTC-3)

Electrical Outlets: Uruguay uses Type L electrical sockets (similar to Types C and I), with a standard voltage of 230V. Make sure to bring appropriate adapters if needed.

Colonia del Sacramento

Colonia del Sacramento, commonly known by its shortened form, Colonia, is a UNESCO World Heritage site. It’s a port town founded by the Portuguese in 1680, but Spanish forces took control of it almost immediately afterwards. The city has changed hands ten times over the years, finally becoming part of the independent state of Uruguay in 1828.

A day trip or overnight visit to Colonia is worthwhile to see this historic city, especially because it’s easily accessible by bus from Montevideo or by ferry from Buenos Aires, Argentina. It’s a charming, well preserved place with restored fortification walls that were originally built in the 17th and 18th centuries. We enjoyed seeing the influence of Portuguese colonization reflected in the painted ceramic tiles that are scattered throughout Colonia.

Although it was under construction when we visited, we recommend a visit to the lighthouse, which was built in 1857 where the old Portuguese fortress used to be.

The city is quite compact, but we loved seeing the mix of Spanish and Portuguese architecture, the beautiful flowers, artisan shops and cafes and restaurants with outdoor seating.

Basilica del Santísimo Sacramento was completed in 1800 and is one of the oldest churches in Uruguay. It’s worth seeing because of its age, but it’s very humble inside.

Calle de los Suspiros (Street of Sighs) may appear to be an unassuming lane, but it boasts a charming cobblestone pathway and rich history. Along this quaint street, you’ll find Buen Suspiro, a restaurant we recommend you try that occupies a former home from 1720, along with rustic adobe buildings nearby. The street also offers lovely views of the Río de la Plata, but perhaps most intriguing is the lore behind its name. Fun fact: The only postcard you can buy in Colonia is what appears to be a photocopied and unevenly cut photo of the Street of Sighs.

*This old, grainy image of Calle de los Suspiros is the only postcard sold in Colonia*

Check out our video as we walk through both Uruguayan cities and share our experiences

The river here is functional more than beautiful, but you can still enjoy a 3 or 4 kilometer walk along the La Rambla promenade. We didn’t visit, but if you’re up for a long 5 kilometer walk, you can visit Plaza de toros Real de San Carlos, a stadium built for bullfighting that opened in 1910. Two short years later it was closed when bullfighting was banned and was abandoned until it was converted into a cultural center for music and sports in 2021. Buses run every hour to return back to Colonia city center or you can take an Uber.

We expected there to be a little more Christmas there when we visited the second week of December, but there were no appreciable signs of holiday decor the second week of December when we visited. But as you can see, it was very warm, sunny, and colorful at that time of year! Importantly, we found that the people all were very friendly and helpful.

Check out our companion article, Where to Eat in Colonia del Sacramento for everyplace that we ate.

Ferry tickets from Buenos Aires to Colonia del Sacramento

*Buquebus Ferry from Buenos Aires to Colonia del Sacramento*

This scenic journey not only offers stunning views of the Río de la Plata but also serves as a gateway to one of Uruguay's most charming historic towns. You get to avoid the hassle of a plane ride, it’s a unique experience, it’s a quick trip of only about 75 minutes, and visiting Uruguay as a side trip from Buenos Aires is a great way to see a different country that is somewhat underrated. Plus, as we mentioned earlier, Colonia del Sacramento is a UNESCO World Heritage site.

You can take the ferry to Montevideo or to to Colonia del Sacramento. The amount of perks between 1st and 2nd class are minimal. You get a glass of sparkling wine, but you have to ask for it and you get a code for two hours of free wifi (you have to pay for it if you’re in coach); you get a little more space and reclining seats. For journey that lasts only 75 minutes, it wasn’t worth it to us, especially with Argentina’s up and down currency situation.

Departure Point: Ferries to Colonia depart from the Puerto Madero terminal in Buenos Aires. Arrive about 90 minutes early because you will have to go through passport control for both Argentina and Uruguay. The bonus is that covers the Uruguayan side, so when you get off the boat in Uruguay, you can depart the terminal without another stop at customs.

*The ferries carry vehicles as well as passengers*

Ferry Operators: You can buy tickets direct from either Buquebus or Colonia Express, or you can use DirectFerries, an aggregator site that makes it easier to compare prices between each ferry operator. Because we were arriving in Buenos Aires after a trip to Iguazú Falls, we didn’t trust booking our bus ticket in advance because flights here are known for not being on time. As soon as we landed in Buenos Aires, we scrambled to book a ferry, which was stressful because tickets do sell out. In fact, we originally were trying to book through DirectFerries online, but it wasn’t displaying any tickets. We then attempted to book online through Buquebus, but the site did not want to accept our credit card, even though it did show that there were tickets available.

We ultimately booked a ticket when we arrived at the ferry terminal, but the availability was limited and the prices were much higher than had we booked farther in advance. The way around that is to either book a flexible ticket that allows unlimited changes or a scheduled ticket that allows one change up to an hour before departure. If you’re buying a ticket in person like we were, you don’t go to the main check-in counter. We had to head to the right and into a Buquebus office, fill out information on a touch screen, and then wait our turn for someone to help us. It felt more like the inside of a bank where we walked up to a cubicle for someone to help us. Last-minute tickets likely will be more expensive than pre-booked tickets, so keep that in mind. Our December 2024 one-way tickets cost $68.50 per person.

Montevideo, the heart of Uruguay

Montevideo is a melting pot of cultural influences, with strong roots in Spanish, Italian, and Afro-Uruguayan traditions. It’s the largest city in Uruguay and was founded in 1726, by the Spanish as a strategic fort. It boasts a blend of architectural styles, from colonial buildings in Ciudad Vieja (Old Town) to neoclassical and Italian gothic, and art deco. It’s also home to one of the longest continuous waterfront promenades in the world.

Getting to Montevideo by COT bus

*COT bus from Colonia to Montevideo is convenient and easy*

We used the URUBUS website to book our tickets from COLONIA to MONTEVIDEO (Todas). It was quick and easy to pay for two one-way tickets and have them delivered to our email address as a PDF file. When we visited, tickets were approximately $12 per person, and for a nearly three-hour bus trip, we felt like that was a great bargain.

Since Colonia del Sacramento is so small, the walk to the bus station wasn’t a problem with our rolling, carry-on suitcases. The bus arrived at the station a few minutes early, so we went outside to wait for boarding. An attendant motioned for us put our suitcases in the luggage compartment of the bus and gave us receipts for both. Our tickets had seat assignments, so there was zero hassle boarding the bus and getting comfortable for the drive. The bus had a couple of quick stops, but the final stop was obvious.

Must-Visit Attractions in Montevideo

We loved wandering through Plaza Constitucion, with its palm trees, benches, artisans and street musicians creating a relaxed and vibrant atmosphere, which felt to us like the heart of Montevideo. It’s in Ciudad Vieja (Old Town), which honestly is one of the nicest parts of the city.

*Plaza Constitucion is vibrant, welcoming, and lively*

At the other end of the street is Metropolitan Cathedral (Catedral Metropolitana de Montevideo), a Roman Catholic church built in the late 18th century. It has beautiful altars, chapels, and religious artwork and has undergone several renovations and restorations over the years. It’s free and open to visitors.

Opera, ballet, and theatrical performances are held in historic Teatro Solís. It’s at the southwest corner of Plaza Independencia and opened its doors for the first time in 1856.

One of our favorite things is when a city has pedestrian only streets, and Montevideo has several, including Sarandí Street which is flanked by several historic and beautiful buildings and leads you to the port area.

La Rambla is a 22 kilometer promenade along the Río de la Plata and continuing down the entire coast of Montevideo. There are several parks and green spaces throughout this stretch, including Parque de la Amistad and Parque Rodó.

Palacio Salvo is an Italian gothic and art deco building originally designed to be a 27-story luxury hotel in 1928, but it ended up becoming a mix of private residences and offices. It houses a music studio, a radio station, the Uruguayan Tango Museum, and a cinema.

We didn’t get up close to it but Montevideo’s three-sided granite obelisk was built in 1930 to celebrate the 100th anniversary of the constitution of Uruguay. A Bronze statue is on each side to represent "Law", "Liberty" and "Force" with a water fountain at its base.

Candombe

I was fascinated by candombe, which we serendipitously encountered in Colonia, but it has a stronger presence here in Montevideo. It’s a musical form that involves three different types of drums and includes dancing and colorful flags called banderas that banderaeros (flag bearers) wave as they lead a candombe procession.

Candombe has its roots in Africa and was performed originally by Africans enslaved and brought to Uruguay during the colonial period. It has been passed down through generations. Look and listen for a group to be practicing in Barrio Sur and Palermo around 6 or 7pm on a Sunday night.

Where to eat in Montevideo

Many places close on Sundays, so make sure that your must-try destinations are open on the days you want to visit. Here are a few restaurants we enjoyed during our time in Montevideo.

La Tabla

The national dish of Uruguay is a chivito sandwich, but you can also get it as a plate and eat it with a fork and knife without the bread. La Tabla’s version contained churrasco beef, bacon, a fried egg, ham, green olives, mozzarella, tomatoes, and mayonnaise and comes “con papas” (with French fries). I had their tuna salad with onions, corn, green olives, and lettuce, which was very tasty, but clearly Kevin had the better meal! We also enjoyed their cappuccinos, which are served in a tall glass.

📍Address: Bacacay 1316, 11000 Montevideo, Departamento de Montevideo, Uruguay

*Chivito con papas from La Tabla is a dish you will remember long after you taste it!*

Café Brasilero

*Churros with dulce de leche were the star of this meal*

The old-world charm of this Brazilian-themed cafe built in 1877 drew us in. It’s the oldest cafe in the city and upon entering, its historic photographs, brass plaques, and various memorabilia create an atmosphere of how special this place is. My brown bread with soft scrambled eggs, basil, avocado quarters, and cherry tomatoes was a little hard to cut into, but otherwise tasty. Kevin’s ham and cheese croissant wasn’t a smaller bite than mine, but the pastry was fresh with a light slather of honey on top. If you try nothing else, come for their churros and dulce de leche, which were absolutely other worldly and we couldn’t get them off of our minds. Our first visit was on our 41st wedding anniversary, but they were equally scrumptious on our return visit the next day. The churros were light and fluffy and even with their generous sprinkle of sugar, they weren’t cloyingly sweet when dipped in the thick caramely confection. It’s not a surprise that Café Brasilero sells jars of this delight because you will want to eat it with a spoon.

📍Address: Ituzaingó 1447, 11000 Montevideo, Departamento de Montevideo, Uruguay

Empanadas Carolina

You’ll want to bring cash or be prepared to get a small fee added to your debit card if you pick up some empanadas from this shop at Mercado del Puerto which has been serving these flavorful pastries since 1960. They have a wide variety of both savory and sweet flavors. Expect to wait in line, but it moves really fast, so don’t dawdle too long figuring out what you want. Their carne picante wasn’t too spicy, their chicken, ham, and cheese were juicy and delicious, and what else would you expect their meat, cheese, and bacon version to be besides amazing?

📍Address: Piedras 237, Loc 20, 11000 Montevideo, Departamento de Montevideo, Uruguay

El Fogón

This parrilla serves pasta and seafood in addition to its barbecued meats. But the steaks here really shine, so you should try them! My petit filet de lomo was tender, and grilled and seasoned perfectly and Kevin’s entrecôte also was properly cooked. Before our entrees were served the waiter delivered a platter of thin bread, aioli, sausage, and dipping sauce. For a side we were discouraged from getting the grilled vegetables because the portion size is very generous, but we found the same to be true of the provincial mushrooms we ultimately chose. They were served in a lemony sauce that was a good complement to the mushrooms and also the steak, which came with a side of lightly mashed, rustic potatoes. Unexpectedly, my lemonade was served in a large carafe, which was more than I could comprehend finishing! Kevin’s house red, a Cabernet Franc from Uruguay, was good but not outstanding. The waiters all seemed like they have been here for a long time. We saw plenty of locals while we were here, so you’ll want to book reservations online before you visit. It’s been around since 1962, and it was fairly crowded even on a Tuesday.

📍Address: S. José 1080, 11100 Montevideo, Departamento de Montevideo, Uruguay

Uruguay Travel Guide: Colonia and Montevideo